Last weekend, I went to a village in the west. It was rather all of a sudden, my friend had been invited by another friend and asked me if I wanted to come along, and of course I appreciate every chance to get out the city and see more of the country. Our program director was not super happy because she didn't have time to check up carefully on everything. But, off we went.
Again I very much enjoyed the roadtrip. We ended up leaving later than planned, which meant we got to Bafoussam pretty late, which is the big city near the village, Dschang. Map (again):
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| Worldatlas |
Bafoussam is apparently where the richest Cameroonians live, and the houses certainly showed that. West is the region of the Bamiléké people (the friends we were travelling with are Bamiléké), who have been described to me somewhat as the Jews of Cameroon. They have historically controlled much of the money transfers, many have lots of money, and are often more intelligent than average. They also have a particular shape, with a full behind.
Anyway we continued past Bafoussam in the dark, got to a hotel to drop off our things, and then continued again to the village hidden on a dirt track. I was afraid we were going to get the car stuck in a hole, because that happens quite easily and frequently here. Reminded me of searching for weather balloons on farmland in eastern Montana. We arrived at the house without problem (we were going with a Cameroonian lawyer who works in France, but had to return to his village for a family meeting, and insisted that we see a village in the west). There were no lights at the house, and it was rather chilly (for once). However, there were a number of family members that arrived, and soon we were all given beers (I don't know if I've mentioned already that everyone drink an enormous quantity of beer here. Too bad I'm not a huge fan) and had a fire going. We sat around the fire drinking and talking for a while, while the Family Members discussed their Affairs, and finally left to go back to the hotel.
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| The house in Dschang |
Morning came early without much sleep. I was pleased to be able to see the route this time in daylight. We arrived again at the house. For breakfast, we ate tarot, which is kind of like potatoes, with sauce jaune (yellow sauce) and poisson fumé. The tarot was mashed and you scoop it up with your fingers, and have to absolutely clean the plate before giving it back.
Chelsey and Larissa and I ended up sitting outside discussing the world for a while. How we love being in nature, eating plants that we can see growing. We talked about the problems with exportation, and were getting quite riled up. It does make me so angry seeing the potential of the country getting shipped off! Watching giant trucks pass on the road with enormous, beautiful tree trunks makes me want to turn radical and chain myself to a tree (I’ve seen trucks carrying trees so thick there’s only one trunk on the enormous bed). Or stop the driver and started screaming at him. You see this enterprise of exportation in other forms, too. I was really excited about exploring chocolate here, because it grows here, but there is almost no chocolate in the country because the raw beans get shipped of to factories in Europe, who produce the actual product. The “chocolate” spread of Chococam, the Cameroonian company, is mostly sugar and peanuts. Domage.
We left a little after midday, with hugs and kisses for all. It took a while to say goodbye and we had to wait to get the car fixed a bit, so we took off rather later than anticipated.
The road on the way back was, as one can imagine, much the same, although we got to see a different area by daylight. We stopped en route to buy prunes (which are not, in fact, plums, which is the French translation, but a funny fruit that you have to cook with a soft (no juice), slightly sour interior) and plantains and have a beer (including, by the way, the driver – there are no drunk driving laws and everyone is very used to beer). However, it was getting late, and when we continued once again on our journey the sun was sinking quickly.
The roads in Cameroon are very badly maintained. The route I usually take in Yaoundé from my house to school is filled with potholes, some so big that taxis often get stuck in the holes (which makes traffic that much worse, although there is surprisingly little road rage, probably due to the more relaxed African attitude). Also, everyone drives like a crazy person, superfast and passing without really watching. Anyway, as it was getting dark we hit a huge hole in the road, and shockingly enough got a flat tire. Pulled over, pulled out the flashlights, and changed it. However, by that time it was definitely dark, and within 10 minutes we hit another hole, and received another flat tire (the same one, in fact). We didn’t have another extra, so we flagged down a car and sent our driver away to find another one while we waited by the side of the road. It was not a very safe place to wait, as cars were passing ridiculously quickly. But, wait we did.
Perhaps an hour later, a truck stopped and two men hopped out to tell us that the road wasn’t safe to be on. They talked a little too much, but eventually we sent one of them off to get a cord to pull the car to a better location. Upon his return, we realized that our driver had taken the keys, and also left his cell phone (which was low on battery) in the car. The car was old enough that we were able to attach it to the truck and move without being blocked by security measures, but our driver then had no way to find us. However, off we went, the three girls in the truck and the lawyer manning the car. The two men regaled us with stories of people stranded, attacked, and violated on the same road. Thanks, man, really helping my confidence. I started imagining at what point to jump out, but then we stopped at a small center where there were people and a restaurant, and managed to pull the car over. So, no problems. Whew.
Thus began the long waiting game, with no way to get in touch with the driver. We sent a few motorcycles back to look for him (thinking that he would probably have returned with a new tire after all this time) but no luck. Ended up sleeping (or trying) in the car for a bit, which again did not feel safe. Finally (around 2am I think), a bus passed, and the lawyer decided enough was enough. We left the car, brought all our stuff, and hopped on the bus to Yaoundé, which was about an hour and a half away. I was sitting up front (it was rather more like a giant van than a real bus), and don’t think I’ve ever had a more nerve-wracking voyage. Every hole in the road made me afraid we’d pop a tire, and we were driving along so fast, I could imagine us tipping over… didn’t help that I’d taken out my contacts and couldn’t see the road that well.
Eventually, we arrived in Yaoundé, without problems (I became angry again at the passing trucks carrying trees). We all slept at the lawyer’s house (I even managed to send off a quick email to my dad in the U.S. wishing him happy birthday – hope you had a nice, calm day!).
Can’t say it was the most rejuvenating of weekends, but all in all I have no regrets about the trip. I really loved seeing the village, and though we had quite an adventure, no harm done, and I’ve learned my lesson (no more travelling at night. Ever.). I was going to go west again this weekend with my family, but unfortunately the trip was cancelled. Perhaps it’s for the best, as I have a few exams next week (official finals don’t happen until January, but these classes are finished so we decided collectively to take the finals earlier). Good luck on your own finals, Bowdoin friends!
Chelsey and Larissa and I ended up sitting outside discussing the world for a while. How we love being in nature, eating plants that we can see growing. We talked about the problems with exportation, and were getting quite riled up. It does make me so angry seeing the potential of the country getting shipped off! Watching giant trucks pass on the road with enormous, beautiful tree trunks makes me want to turn radical and chain myself to a tree (I’ve seen trucks carrying trees so thick there’s only one trunk on the enormous bed). Or stop the driver and started screaming at him. You see this enterprise of exportation in other forms, too. I was really excited about exploring chocolate here, because it grows here, but there is almost no chocolate in the country because the raw beans get shipped of to factories in Europe, who produce the actual product. The “chocolate” spread of Chococam, the Cameroonian company, is mostly sugar and peanuts. Domage.
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| Cacao plant |
The road on the way back was, as one can imagine, much the same, although we got to see a different area by daylight. We stopped en route to buy prunes (which are not, in fact, plums, which is the French translation, but a funny fruit that you have to cook with a soft (no juice), slightly sour interior) and plantains and have a beer (including, by the way, the driver – there are no drunk driving laws and everyone is very used to beer). However, it was getting late, and when we continued once again on our journey the sun was sinking quickly.
 |
| Entrance to a chiefdom, with the characteristic roof |
The roads in Cameroon are very badly maintained. The route I usually take in Yaoundé from my house to school is filled with potholes, some so big that taxis often get stuck in the holes (which makes traffic that much worse, although there is surprisingly little road rage, probably due to the more relaxed African attitude). Also, everyone drives like a crazy person, superfast and passing without really watching. Anyway, as it was getting dark we hit a huge hole in the road, and shockingly enough got a flat tire. Pulled over, pulled out the flashlights, and changed it. However, by that time it was definitely dark, and within 10 minutes we hit another hole, and received another flat tire (the same one, in fact). We didn’t have another extra, so we flagged down a car and sent our driver away to find another one while we waited by the side of the road. It was not a very safe place to wait, as cars were passing ridiculously quickly. But, wait we did.
Perhaps an hour later, a truck stopped and two men hopped out to tell us that the road wasn’t safe to be on. They talked a little too much, but eventually we sent one of them off to get a cord to pull the car to a better location. Upon his return, we realized that our driver had taken the keys, and also left his cell phone (which was low on battery) in the car. The car was old enough that we were able to attach it to the truck and move without being blocked by security measures, but our driver then had no way to find us. However, off we went, the three girls in the truck and the lawyer manning the car. The two men regaled us with stories of people stranded, attacked, and violated on the same road. Thanks, man, really helping my confidence. I started imagining at what point to jump out, but then we stopped at a small center where there were people and a restaurant, and managed to pull the car over. So, no problems. Whew.
Thus began the long waiting game, with no way to get in touch with the driver. We sent a few motorcycles back to look for him (thinking that he would probably have returned with a new tire after all this time) but no luck. Ended up sleeping (or trying) in the car for a bit, which again did not feel safe. Finally (around 2am I think), a bus passed, and the lawyer decided enough was enough. We left the car, brought all our stuff, and hopped on the bus to Yaoundé, which was about an hour and a half away. I was sitting up front (it was rather more like a giant van than a real bus), and don’t think I’ve ever had a more nerve-wracking voyage. Every hole in the road made me afraid we’d pop a tire, and we were driving along so fast, I could imagine us tipping over… didn’t help that I’d taken out my contacts and couldn’t see the road that well.
Eventually, we arrived in Yaoundé, without problems (I became angry again at the passing trucks carrying trees). We all slept at the lawyer’s house (I even managed to send off a quick email to my dad in the U.S. wishing him happy birthday – hope you had a nice, calm day!).
Can’t say it was the most rejuvenating of weekends, but all in all I have no regrets about the trip. I really loved seeing the village, and though we had quite an adventure, no harm done, and I’ve learned my lesson (no more travelling at night. Ever.). I was going to go west again this weekend with my family, but unfortunately the trip was cancelled. Perhaps it’s for the best, as I have a few exams next week (official finals don’t happen until January, but these classes are finished so we decided collectively to take the finals earlier). Good luck on your own finals, Bowdoin friends!
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| Sunset on the road |
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